Showing posts with label By Country. Show all posts
Showing posts with label By Country. Show all posts

Monday, September 29, 2008

Why Do You Have To Be Dead To Be Smart?

Why now, Ehud, on your way to the graveyard?

September 30, 2008, nytimes.com

Olmert Says Israel Should Pull Out of West Bank

By ETHAN BRONNER

JERUSALEM — Prime Minister Ehud Olmert said in an interview published on Monday that Israel must withdraw from nearly all of the West Bank as well as East Jerusalem to attain peace with the Palestinians and that any occupied land it held onto would have to be exchanged for the same quantity of Israeli territory.

He also dismissed as “megalomania” any thought that Israel would or should attack Iran on its own to stop it from developing nuclear weapons, saying the international community and not Israel alone was charged with handling the issue.

In an unusually frank and soul-searching interview granted after he resigned to fight corruption charges — he remains interim prime minister until a new government is sworn in — Mr. Olmert discarded longstanding Israeli defense doctrine and called for radical new thinking, in words that are sure to stir controversy as his expected successor, Foreign Minister Tzipi Livni, tries to build a coalition.

“What I am saying to you now has not been said by any Israeli leader before me,” Mr. Olmert told the newspaper Yediot Aharonot in the interview on the occasion of the Jewish new year, observed from Monday evening till Wednesday evening. “The time has come to say these things.”

He said that traditional Israeli defense strategists had learned nothing from past experiences and that they seemed stuck in the considerations of the 1948 war of independence.

“With them, it is all about tanks and land and controlling territories and controlled territories and this hilltop and that hilltop,” he said. “All these things are worthless.”

He added, “Who thinks seriously that if we sit on another hilltop, on another hundred meters, that this is what will make the difference for the State of Israel’s basic security?”

Over the last year, Mr. Olmert has publicly castigated himself for his earlier right-wing views and he did so again in this interview. On Jerusalem, for example, he said: “I am the first who wanted to enforce Israeli sovereignty on the entire city. I admit it. I am not trying to justify retroactively what I did for 35 years. For a large portion of these years, I was unwilling to look at reality in all its depth.”

He said that maintaining sovereignty over an undivided Jerusalem, Israel’s official policy, would involve bringing 270,000 Palestinians inside Israel’s security barrier. It would mean a continuing risk of terrorist attacks against civilians like those carried out this year by Jerusalem Palestinian residents with front-end loaders.

“A decision has to be made,” he said. “This decision is difficult, terrible, a decision that contradicts our natural instincts, our innermost desires, our collective memories, the prayers of the Jewish people for 2,000 years.”

The government’s public stand on Jerusalem until now has been to assert that the status of the city was not under discussion. But Mr. Olmert made clear that the eastern, predominantly Arab, sector had to be yielded “with special solutions” for the holy sites.

On peace with the Palestinians, Mr. Olmert said in the interview: “We face the need to decide but are not willing to tell ourselves, yes, this is what we have to do. We have to reach an agreement with the Palestinians, the meaning of which is that in practice we will withdraw from almost all the territories, if not all the territories. We will leave a percentage of these territories in our hands, but will have to give the Palestinians a similar percentage, because without that there will be no peace.”

Elsewhere in the interview, when discussing a land swap with the Palestinians, he said the exchange would have to be “more or less one to one.”

Mr. Olmert also addressed the question of Syria, saying that Israel had to be prepared to give up the Golan Heights but that in turn Damascus knew it had to change the nature of its relationship with Iran and its support for Hezbollah, the Lebanese militia.

On Iran, Mr. Olmert said Israel would act within the international system, adding: “Part of our megalomania and our loss of proportions is the things that are said here about Iran. We are a country that has lost a sense of proportion about itself.”

Reaction from the Israeli right was swift. Avigdor Lieberman, who leads the Yisrael Beiteinu party, said on the radio that Mr. Olmert was “endangering the existence of the State of Israel irresponsibly.”

He added that those who thought Israel’s problem was a lack of defined borders — as Mr. Olmert stated in the interview — “are ignoramuses who don’t understand anything, and they invite war.”

As they reacted to Mr. Olmert’s remarks, Palestinian negotiators said it was satisfying to hear Mr. Olmert’s words but they said the words did not match what he had offered them so far. Yasser Abed Rabbo, a senior Palestinian official, told Palestinian Radio that it would have been better if Mr. Olmert had taken this position while in office rather than while leaving it and that Mr. Olmert had not yet presented a detailed plan for a border between Israel and a Palestinian state.

In theory, Mr. Olmert will continue peace negotiations while awaiting the new government. But analysts generally say that having been forced to resign his post, he will not be able to close a deal.
Just to say, can anything be more obvious than that. And yet, will one person (who counts) say it?

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Turkey, the Aegean Coast

Ephesus (Efes .. "like the beer")

The theatre here, built by the Greeks and expanded by the Romans, is magnificent. You just want to sit and wonder, and think, and chat.


The library at Efes. Another magnificent structure. One thing, it was climate-controlled. The walls against which books were stored looked like an exterior wall but wasn't; behind the library wall was a passage for free flow of air, then the exterior wall, all to keep the books and scrolls from exposure to humidity.


The theatre at Efes from near the top. Sometimes you'd have a tour group listening to the tour leader, sometimes you'd just have people hanging out.


The main drag at Efes. Generally the roads and buildings were on mild grades.


One reason: you wanted a constant flow of water. Unrelated, but imagine somebody walking in and the only free stall was between these two guys?


Reasons you want a guide, number 52. You'd miss this ad, the world's first we were told, and wouldn't you know, associated with the world's oldest profession. A foot, an arrow and a heart .. the rest is up to you.


Pergamum (Bergama)

This is a tunnel leading to or part of a psychiatric hospital. The tunnel is actually underground, with the roof just butting up to the surface ground. This was significant, in that the underground location, with its constant temperature amd cool and humid climate, was thought to be comforting. Note the ceiling openings, there were several and these allowed doctors, off hours, to "monitor" their patients, listen in on their well-being or other carrying-on. The location was also chosen due to the existence of spring water pools, the water was thought to have healing qualities. All in all, Pergamum was likely the most advanced medical facility of its time.


Here we walk towards what was once the Temple of Apollo. It's always a leisurely walk, as the approach time equals the time needed for the guide's explanation of what you are about to "see". The trees are beautiful. How much do they know?


I'm always looking to adopt a family (see Nicaragua pics), here we had seen these kids gathering firewood earlier. A family lives and farms on top of the old city. I wonder if the spring water keeps them healthy?

The theatre at Pergamum. Like Efes this used to be a coastal city, now its inland at least a couple of miles.


This picture is labeled "Roman seats", and the reason, as I recall, is that they were distinct in style from the Greek seats .. I just don't recall why and how. I know the Greek theatre seating was more head on, or to think of the shape a small arc of a circle, and when the Romans added on and upgraded they added to the outside changing the layout to more of a semi-circle.


Didyma, Miletos, and Prienne

One thing you always look for, other than the theatre, is the counsel chamber. This one is at Didyma. Who gets the big chairs? (Hellooo, fatboy.)




Not much to say here, when you look at the ruins you always have to have one thing in the back of your mind: earthquake. Two+ millennia, you're bound to have a couple of knee-knockers.


Me trying to be artistic at Prienne. I got grudging approval of this pic from my wife (most of the other pics are hers). Of course this column "structure" hasn't stayed in this precarious state for 2500 years, it was reconstructed for us, the tourists. Same for the columns, below, at Prienne.



The cities were very strategically located: vantage point, ability to defend (probably the most important), accessibility, etc.




Izmir

Not much going on here. But that was Izmir.


Compare to Istanbul:


This was a couple minutes walk from our hotel. A touristy area I guess, some nice restaurants, and probably people like us, just arrived in the city. The flag is ever-present. Same with statues of Ataturk, I'll have to find one.




Roman arches

Are everywhere, the first is Efes, the second is Miletos, and the bottom, Istanbul.




Istanbul

Just a reminder that you don't have to leave Istanbul to see the work of the Romans. Their aqueducts were a work of art.



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Added Dec 13, 08:



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Thursday, May 22, 2008

Nicaragua

Welcome from Nicaragua. We were a bit giddy by the time we got to Masaya, one of many active volcanoes in Nicaragua, this one just off the highway from Managua to Granada. Famously, you can drive right up to the rim of the volcano, and famously, you must back your car into your parking spot to facilitate a quick get-away, just in case. (The last just-in-case was 2001.)


The museum at the entrance to the volcano park is a nice one, with a mini lesson of plate tectonics and some nice work on the local history.

Below are three of the people we met in Nicaragua. Rafael, with us at the museum, is an aspiring hotel owner. Right now he works for a guy from Montana who owns a nice spot in Granada. Rafael's also a bit of an entrepreneur and runs a couple of small businesses.

Ismael, our guide and driver in Managua, is next down. Mombotombo, a stratovolcano, is in the background middle left. I liked Ismael, though he didn't speak a word of English. He understood it though, I know that. Once I was bargaining for a couple of handbags with those Mayan/Aztec type drawings on them, I asked him to offer the woman 20 versus her stated price of 24 and he just looked at me and said no. Here's how I took the no: that would be insulting, and I'm protecting you and her by not relaying your bid, even if it will make you slightly angry with me. I sensed he knew I was a bit tired of local food too, we went to a nice mall with a great foodcourt and a decent live band (Billy Joel, Piano Man as we walked in) for our going away meal.

Next down is Fredder, our guide for ziplining up in a coffee plantation on the side of a mountain outside of Granada. Fredder was only 22 and had lots of energy and loved to talk. We learned that he started welding when he was 14 but that wasn't what he wanted to do so he went back to school. At university he had a girlfriend from El Salvador who did a poli sci degree; she knew everything about every treaty that affected Central American. Fredder wasn't into politics though, birds were his thing. He spoke for about an hour nonstop about birds while we hiked through the mountain, every word measured and meaningful. Fredder also let us know that he doesn't smoke, drink or dance close, but does like to party, and split with his old girlfriend.








After the ziplining fun we take care of a formality, signing the waiver. In the (farthest) background is Mario, while Fredder did the work in making sure we were safe, Mario did all the checking and made sure we were doubly safe and comfortable. He didn't say much, but you had the feeling that he knew what he was doing. He was also our driver, and could have easily killed us all, rollover style, just getting to our destination; it was not a fun ride, and I guess in choosing whether to hit the bumps hard or soft it might as well be hard and fast, versus soft and slow. (Same principle on the water by the way, boaters will know.)



A resort on the Pacific. After "roughing it" (hotel with no pool) for 5 days, we treat ourselves at Montelimar.


The pool is the largest in Central America, and the ocean isn't bad either. The waves are a bit deceptive, larger than they look .. there's a body in the second pic below, if you look hard enough.




Finally around sunset you get some relief from the scorching temps.















And when you think you've seen or missed the sunset, look what happens. The sun comes back again to hit the underside of the clouds. These three pics are taken 7, 8, and 9 minutes after the last pic above. Gorgeous.















Back in Granada you start the day (if you dare) with a trip to the covered market. How many years has this been going on, just like this.


And if your sandals need repairing, pay somebody to find you the shoe repair guy in the outdoor market. Two bucks for a 1 minute stitch job, turns a busted sandal into a functional one.


A typical restaurant. After playing it safe with recognizable food, we went with local fare. The restaurants aren't as showy, but the food is good, the service is great, and the conversation always interesting.


















And then in the evening, it's Central Park. I had grabbed a bench (hard to do, you have to be patient and quick), but I soon had one visitor, then a second, which filled the bench. How am I going to explain that? Then a third, standing there with her baby and looking at me as if I took her spot. It's yours, I gestured, and your price (I thought to myself) will be a picture with me.